Seiko Club Singapore Museum

Photography

chriscentro
Re: Photography

"Wade"

[quote="chriscentro"]


No, used ones try Clubsnap forum.

just called Alan photo and get quoted with a brand new at S$1090 cash with two year warranty by Sigma...pretty good price is it :?:[/quote]

My recent 3 purchase was at Alan Photo Funan, their prices I can trust.
Wade
Re: Photography

"chriscentro"

[quote="Wade"]
just called Alan photo and get quoted with a brand new at S$1090 cash with two year warranty by Sigma...pretty good price is it :?:

My recent 3 purchase was at Alan Photo Funan, their prices I can trust.[/quote]

Noob question:

what your view on Nikon 35mm f/2.8 compare with Sigma 24-70mm at 35mm f/2.8?

in term of image quality and sharpness?
chriscentro
Re: Photography

"Wade"

[quote="chriscentro"]
My recent 3 purchase was at Alan Photo Funan, their prices I can trust.


Noob question:

what your view on Nikon 35mm f/2.8 compare with Sigma 24-70mm at 35mm f/2.8?

in term of image quality and sharpness?[/quote]

Actually I'm not so sensitive to the quality but I know the zoom lens cannot go to f1.8.
Wade
Re: Photography

"chriscentro"

[quote="Wade"]


Noob question:

what your view on Nikon 35mm f/2.8 compare with Sigma 24-70mm at 35mm f/2.8?

in term of image quality and sharpness?


Actually I'm not so sensitive to the quality but I know the zoom lens cannot go to f1.8.[/quote]

does u mean that at 24mm with f/2.8 is ok. if we increase the focus length to 35mm then the aperture will shift to the next higher??
chriscentro
Re: Photography

"Wade"

[quote="chriscentro"]


Actually I'm not so sensitive to the quality but I know the zoom lens cannot go to f1.8.


does u mean that at 24mm with f/2.8 is ok. if we increase the focus length to 35mm then the aperture will shift to the next higher??[/quote]

No, what you are looking at is a constant f2.8 zoom lens; the max aperture remains at f2.8 through out the zoom range of 24 to 70mm.



What I mean is zoom lens aperture can't open up to f1.8 like the prime lens.
Wade
Re: Photography

"chriscentro"

[quote="Wade"]


does u mean that at 24mm with f/2.8 is ok. if we increase the focus length to 35mm then the aperture will shift to the next higher??


No, what you are looking at is a constant f2.8 zoom lens; the max aperture remains at f2.8 through out the zoom range of 24 to 70mm.



What I mean is zoom lens aperture can't open up to f1.8 like the prime lens.[/quote]
okay, I believe at f/2.8 still able to create the DOF for portrait
chriscentro
Re: Photography

"Wade"

[quote="chriscentro"]


No, what you are looking at is a constant f2.8 zoom lens; the max aperture remains at f2.8 through out the zoom range of 24 to 70mm.



What I mean is zoom lens aperture can't open up to f1.8 like the prime lens.

okay, I believe at f/2.8 still able to create the DOF for portrait[/quote]

Can.

Aiya, I'm biased against zoom lenses, lol.

Other bros can give some comments.
maxwinamp
Re: Photography
It depends on your style of shooting. If want DOF portrait, zoom with constant 2.8 can. Prime with 2.8 or 1.8/1.4/1.2 ALSO can.

Portrait I usually use 50 1.4 or 85 1.8 prime.

For street.. 35 1.4 or 50 1.4.



I seldom use zoom lens :P
chriscentro
Re: Photography
Does anyone have a Canon 135mm f2 lens?



I'm so smitten by the bokeh and keep thinking to get a Canon full frame cam and the 135mm...aiya just dreaming only, difficult to realise.
Wade
Re: Photography

"maxwinamp"

It depends on your style of shooting. If want DOF portrait, zoom with constant 2.8 can. Prime with 2.8 or 1.8/1.4/1.2 ALSO can.

Portrait I usually use 50 1.4 or 85 1.8 prime.

For street.. 35 1.4 or 50 1.4.



I seldom use zoom lens :P


damn now I'm hesitated to hoot or not to hoot.

thou of can use zoom lens for landscape and portriat when traveling to BKK or Hanoi & Ha Long Bay...

whereas prime lens can't.
maxwinamp
Re: Photography
This is the only trip (for work) 5d2 2470 f2.8

http://refraction.outthere.info/chiang-mai-night-street-2/" false;



1st and last trip with zoom. The rest all with prime. I find myself not 'zooming' most of the time when i shoot.
yrh0413
Re: Photography

"chriscentro"

Does anyone have a Canon 135mm f2 lens?



I'm so smitten by the bokeh and keep thinking to get a Canon full frame cam and the 135mm...aiya just dreaming only, difficult to realise.


used to own this but sold it fairly quickly and got a 50mm f/1.2L instead. To me the 50L is more versatile, can be used as walkaround lens and portrait. 85L and 135L has pretty limited use as a portrait lens for headshots...
brillantblend
Re: Photography

"yrh0413"

[quote="chriscentro"]Does anyone have a Canon 135mm f2 lens?



I'm so smitten by the bokeh and keep thinking to get a Canon full frame cam and the 135mm...aiya just dreaming only, difficult to realise.


used to own this but sold it fairly quickly and got a 50mm f/1.2L instead. To me the 50L is more versatile, can be used as walkaround lens and portrait. 85L and 135L has pretty limited use as a portrait lens for headshots...[/quote]

Yup, have to agreed, the 50L brokeh is just awesome.





Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
chriscentro
Re: Photography
Yes agreed that the 50mm is more versatile and the 35mm f1.4 is great for environmental portraits. The 135 is a specialised lens with great bokeh too.
Wade
Re: Photography
@chriscentro

I have some doubt for night photography.

When you are using Manual Mode for Night Photography; do you chose Auto or Manual focus on the lens?
chriscentro
Re: Photography

"Wade"

@chriscentro

I have some doubt for night photography.

When you are using Manual Mode for Night Photography; do you chose Auto or Manual focus on the lens?


Manual mode means you choose the ISO, aperture and shutter speed. Using AF or MF does not really co-relate to using manual mode.

I use MF when I think the cam or lens cannot focus well in the scene I'm shooting.

For the shot below, I used MF as the macro lens cannot focus fast enough as I need to precisely shoot it when all the hands strike at 12 midnight.

I pre-focus at the target area first and wait for the time to press the shutter. Let me think of other scenarios when MF is better.

Wade
Re: Photography
Read some information as mentioned:0

- use Manual mode with setting of ISO100, aperture at f16 or so and shutter speed as low as possible 1/30 or so is best for night shooting

- use MF and set to infinity

- use a remote or timer to release the shutter



But if we use MF, does we need to adjust the lens to focus on the scene or building?

Does infinity focus for us?
chriscentro
Re: Photography

"Wade"

Read some information as mentioned:0

- use Manual mode with setting of ISO100, aperture at f16 or so and shutter speed as low as possible 1/30 or so is best for night shooting

- use MF and set to infinity

- use a remote or timer to release the shutter



But if we use MF, does we need to adjust the lens to focus on the scene or building?

Does infinity focus for us?


If shooting landscape and already using very small aperture like f16 and set to MF/infinity focus, I don't think you need to specially fix your focus point on any particular part of the scene as everything should be in focus already.



Choose the shutter speed according to the amount of light available and the effects you want to achieve, 1/30 sec is not ideal for all situations.



Use tripod/timer/remote shutter when shooting at low shutter speed.
Wade
Re: Photography

"chriscentro"

[quote="Wade"]Read some information as mentioned:0

- use Manual mode with setting of ISO100, aperture at f16 or so and shutter speed as low as possible 1/30 or so is best for night shooting

- use MF and set to infinity

- use a remote or timer to release the shutter



But if we use MF, does we need to adjust the lens to focus on the scene or building?

Does infinity focus for us?


If shooting landscape and already using very small aperture like f16 and set to MF/infinity focus, I don't think you need to specially fix your focus point on any particular part of the scene as everything should be in focus already.



Choose the shutter speed according to the amount of light available and the effects you want to achieve, 1/30 sec is not ideal for all situations.



Use tripod/timer/remote shutter when shooting at low shutter speed.[/quote]

What is the estimated ideal shutter speed for night shooting when shooting b4 or after dusk.
chriscentro
Re: Photography

"Wade"

[quote="chriscentro"]


If shooting landscape and already using very small aperture like f16 and set to MF/infinity focus, I don't think you need to specially fix your focus point on any particular part of the scene as everything should be in focus already.



Choose the shutter speed according to the amount of light available and the effects you want to achieve, 1/30 sec is not ideal for all situations.



Use tripod/timer/remote shutter when shooting at low shutter speed.


What is the estimated ideal shutter speed for night shooting when shooting b4 or after dusk.[/quote]

no answers to this question becos everyday the light is different, just try a few shutter speeds and check your LCD for the outcome and adjust accordingly :D

Just to let you know, the light in the sky can change in a few seconds, if you missed it , have to wait for another day :shock:
Wade
Re: Photography

"chriscentro"

[quote="Wade"]


What is the estimated ideal shutter speed for night shooting when shooting b4 or after dusk.


no answers to this question becos everyday the light is different, just try a few shutter speeds and check your LCD for the outcome and adjust accordingly :D

Just to let you know, the light in the sky can change in a few seconds, if you missed it , have to wait for another day :shock:[/quote]
thank bro...i always ask stupid Q...:(
chriscentro
Re: Photography

"Wade"

[quote="chriscentro"]


no answers to this question becos everyday the light is different, just try a few shutter speeds and check your LCD for the outcome and adjust accordingly :D

Just to let you know, the light in the sky can change in a few seconds, if you missed it , have to wait for another day :shock:

thank bro...i always ask stupid Q...:([/quote]

No problem bro...just found one landscape photo taken in Hong Kong

ISO 250

1/30 sec

f2

D700 + 35mm f2 lens, handheld, time was 7.20 pm

Wade
Re: Photography
nice HK shot.

i was thinking if shooting portrait with f/2.8 focus length at 24mm, can we use MF with infinity rather than AF in daylight?
chriscentro
Re: Photography

"Wade"

nice HK shot.

i was thinking if shooting portrait with f/2.8 focus length at 24mm, can we use MF with infinity rather than AF in daylight?


Are you trying to achieve everything in the photo to be sharp?

If yes, just use a small aperture and AF.



A quote from the internet:



When would I want to use infinity focus? What's its purpose?



Infinity focus is used for when shooting something that is hard to focus on especially at night or in dimly lit situations. Examples would be fireworks, a lightning storm (way off in the distance), astrophotography or distant landscapes.
Wade
Re: Photography
noob question.

if I on AF for Sigma 24-70mm and i adjusted to infinity and i hope i will not damage the lens.
chriscentro
Re: Photography

"Wade"

noob question.

if I on AF for Sigma 24-70mm and i adjusted to infinity and i hope i will not damage the lens.


If your lens is this one

http://www.the-digital-picture.com/Reviews/Sigma-24-70mm-f-2.8-EX-DG-HSM-Lens-Review.aspx"Focusing is internal – the lens does not extend and the filter threads do not rotate during focusing. FTM (Full Time Manual) focusing is supported. Simply grab the focus ring and take control – before or after auto focusing."



But I dont know why you are so fixated on focus to infinity, I've never used it, lol.
Wade
Re: Photography

"chriscentro"

[quote="Wade"]noob question.

if I on AF for Sigma 24-70mm and i adjusted to infinity and i hope i will not damage the lens.


If your lens is this one

http://www.the-digital-picture.com/Reviews/Sigma-24-70mm-f-2.8-EX-DG-HSM-Lens-Review.aspx"Focusing is internal – the lens does not extend and the filter threads do not rotate during focusing. FTM (Full Time Manual) focusing is supported. Simply grab the focus ring and take control – before or after auto focusing."



But I dont know why you are so fixated on focus to infinity, I've never used it, lol.[/quote]
Yup this lens.

No no, I didn't set to infinity but I accidentally move to infinity when it is on AF, so scare I might damage the lens.

Haha, it seem like a misunderstanding.
chriscentro
Re: Photography




This shot is made possible with the EM10's flip and touch screen (and tripod).
Wade
Re: Photography
Sunny 16 Rule (Manual mode, Focal length: 24mm, f/16.0, ISO 100 & 1/100s)

Will try some sunset & night shot tonight



Wade
Re: Photography
Try Sunset shooting at Mount Faber; shot taken at 18:55pm with Sigma 24-70mm f/2.8.

Manual Mode, Focal length: 24mm, ISO100, 1/30s, f/16.0, OEV Direct Sunlight.

Lens is set to Manual Focus & set to infinity.



hisokaka
Re: Photography

"Wade"

Try Sunset shooting at Mount Faber; shot taken at 18:55pm with Sigma 24-70mm f/2.8.

Manual Mode, Focal length: 24mm, ISO100, 1/30s, f/16.0, OEV Direct Sunlight.

Lens is set to Manual Focus & set to infinity.





why not try aperture mode first? Using a DSLR does not mean u have to be using manual mode all the time especially when u are just starting out. Aperture/Shutter mode can teach u on wat aperture to use depending on the light availability.



Apologies if Im too blunt on the sunset pic above. Colors and contrast are flat, the foreground are too dark, there's no clear subject on what u want to achieve. U may want to read more about exposure and composition in order to improve on the pics. Photgraphy is not about inputting certain settings to get the pics that u want because that will NOT work. Practice, practice and more practice. Good luck ;)
yrh0413
Re: Photography
yup a lot of times friends beside me force themselves to use full manual mode when they bought their DSLR. Not sure why they just felt it is necessary to use manual mode on a complicated camera.



I still remember when I just got my first camera (a prosumer model, that time DSLRs do not exist and even a 300D cost a bomb), I always force myself to use manual mode; somehow the mode button set to "M" makes it uber cool for a uni student. :lol: Then when I progress to entry level DSLR, semi-pro, pro models I find myself using aperture priority more and more especially when I have a lot of quality lens in my bag.



Fast forward 10 years later... I can basically grab any camera with manual settings and use with ease. Just need to know how to set the ISO, aperture, and focus points. And give me a good subject with plenty of good light ;)



Some photos I took last week:



Fujifilm x-pro1 w/ XF60mm. ISO200, f/5.6 shot on a tripod.

Setup: black reflective acrylic as base to get the reflection, black matte cardboard at the back for the dark background. IKEA desk clock at the back





Fujitilm x-pro1 w/ XF60mm. ISO200, f/2.4 shot on a tripod

Setup: black reflective acrylic, some of my Fuji lenses as props

roo7
Re: Photography

"hisokaka"

[quote="Wade"]Try Sunset shooting at Mount Faber; shot taken at 18:55pm with Sigma 24-70mm f/2.8.

Manual Mode, Focal length: 24mm, ISO100, 1/30s, f/16.0, OEV Direct Sunlight.

Lens is set to Manual Focus & set to infinity.





why not try aperture mode first? Using a DSLR does not mean u have to be using manual mode all the time especially when u are just starting out. Aperture/Shutter mode can teach u on wat aperture to use depending on the light availability.



Apologies if Im too blunt on the sunset pic above. Colors and contrast are flat, the foreground are too dark, there's no clear subject on what u want to achieve. U may want to read more about exposure and composition in order to improve on the pics. Photgraphy is not about inputting certain settings to get the pics that u want because that will NOT work. Practice, practice and more practice. Good luck ;)[/quote]

Then filters come into the picture or HDR.



I'm not pro but I once chase sun rise/set, the manual settings doesn't matter anymore. Steady shot, tripods, long exposures, filters to sort out shots like that.



I agree, don't fuss around so much about the settings. Getting the right exposure is pretty useless if the photo doesn't have any stand out feature. Composition is something that's hard to practice. Some just have an eye for things.





Via a mobile device
Wade
Re: Photography
It ok hisokaka bro. It good to have comment coming in then I can improve my photography skill.

I have reduced the Exposure comp; my whole idea to highlight the sky which doesn't seem on the right track.

Let hope the below photo have improved on the photo Colors, contrast, foreground and clear subject on what I want to achieve.



yrh0413
Re: Photography

"Wade"


I have reduced the Exposure comp; my whole idea to highlight the sky which doesn't seem on the right track.

Let hope the below photo have improved on the photo Colors, contrast, foreground and clear subject on what I want to achieve.


you need to ask yourself: what is interesting in your photo? If it is the sun then there are too many unnecessary foreground items (thick bushes) and the building at the left is an extra. What are you trying to portray? I would suggest another vantage points where you can find more interesting foreground, or perhaps do a tighter crop with a telephoto lens emphasising the cable cars hanging in front of the setting sun. If you need to include large amount of foreground, do consider using GND filters or exposure compensation (later merge multiple photos into a HDR-like photo).



I have to agree with roo7; composition and creativity is the most difficult aspect to pick up in photography. ;)



Some of my archives, I don't really shoot much anymore (work caught up on me):



LongJi Rice Terrace (2010)





Marina Bay Sands (2012)





ArtScience Museum (2012) *ignore the white strip at the left, not sure how it got there

Wade
Re: Photography
wow nice shot bro yrh0413 and really need to learn from you.

If can't success then have to give up photography.
yrh0413
Re: Photography

"Wade"

wow nice shot bro yrh0413 and really need to learn from you.

If can't success then have to give up photography.


please don't say that, photography is just a hobby... a passion to take pretty photographs. The way you put it is like saying "I should give up Seiko if I cannot afford a Grand Seiko" :lol:



my mentor (a commercial landscape photographer) once told me, a powerful photograph is one that capture attention of viewers of all ages.

A photo that people will pause for a while when they saw your photo on the billboard;

A photo that people will stop scrolling their mouse when they saw your photo on a website



I'm still learning, but gone are the days where I am passioned enough to lug 20kg cameras and lenses on every overseas trip.

Nowadays I just travel light and no longer bring my tripod. Somehow I kindda into B&W journalist-style these days, the trills of poking a camera at one's face is both daring and rewarding ;)



Siem Reap (2012)





Little India (2012)

Wade
Re: Photography
:lol: yes, pls give up Seiko, if you can't offord GS...

No la, just a joking. Thk and will take your advise.
hisokaka
Re: Photography
really great pics and even greater advice u have there, yrh0413 bro. im just not good with my words in tutoring people.
Wade
Re: Photography
No no no, hisokaka bro, u have given out many good advice.

Not to forget yrh0413 & christcentro bro too.
chriscentro
Re: Photography
Just to illustrate one of the situations when you want to use full manual mode – in very dim light.

1.Took the first shot in Aperture priority mode, I set the aperture to f1.8 and ISO 200, the cam gave me a shutter

speed of 1.6 sec.



Nice exposure but too bright for the effect i want, big camera shake, it’s a disaster





2. 2nd shot, in manual mode – I set f1.8, ISO 200 and shutter 1/25 sec

Came out too dark





3. 3rd shot, to get a brighter picture I up the ISO to 400 instead of slowing down the shutter speed as it will cause camera shake. f1.8, shutter 1/25 sec.



Got the shot i want.

softup
Re: Photography

"chriscentro"

Just to illustrate one of the situations when you want to use full manual mode – in very dim light.

1.Took the first shot in Aperture priority mode, I set the aperture to f1.8 and ISO 200, the cam gave me a shutter

speed of 1.6 sec.



Nice exposure but too bright for the effect i want, big camera shake, it’s a disaster





2. 2nd shot, in manual mode – I set f1.8, ISO 200 and shutter 1/25 sec

Came out too darkM





3. 3rd shot, to get a brighter picture I up the ISO to 400 instead of slowing down the shutter speed as it will cause camera shake. f1.8, shutter 1/25 sec.



Got the shot i want.



Thanks for useful tips ... Learning from bros here.



chriscentro
Re: Photography
No problem Bro ;)
Wade
Re: Photography
3rd photo is nice...
chriscentro
Re: Photography

"Wade"

3rd photo is nice...


Thanks Bro, the watch needs a new bezel insert lol
Wade
Re: Photography

"chriscentro"

[quote="Wade"]3rd photo is nice...


Thanks Bro, the watch needs a new bezel insert lol[/quote]
:?: i thou you did some trick on the bezel to make it look faded
skye
Re: Photography

"chriscentro"

Just to illustrate one of the situations when you want to use full manual mode – in very dim light.

1.Took the first shot in Aperture priority mode, I set the aperture to f1.8 and ISO 200, the cam gave me a shutter

speed of 1.6 sec.



Nice exposure but too bright for the effect i want, big camera shake, it’s a disaster





2. 2nd shot, in manual mode – I set f1.8, ISO 200 and shutter 1/25 sec

Came out too dark





3. 3rd shot, to get a brighter picture I up the ISO to 400 instead of slowing down the shutter speed as it will cause camera shake. f1.8, shutter 1/25 sec.



Got the shot i want.



Bro. Upping the ISO will cause more noise for the photo. Ideally would be better using a tripod. Adding two more stops to your aperture to make it sharper and decreasing the shutter.



But if cos as long as you get the shots you wan, whatever setting works. Lol
chriscentro
Re: Photography
Yes you are right but I didn't have a tripod as I took the shot in office.

If tripod was used, the shutter speed is probably slower and one would not be able to freeze the second hand, hence, it depends on what effect one is after.

In this case, noise is not a problem as it's a modern cam with great iso capability ;)
skye
Re: Photography

"chriscentro"

Yes you are right but I didn't have a tripod as I took the shot in office.

If tripod was used, the shutter speed is probably slower and one would not be able to freeze the second hand, hence, it depends on what effect one is after.

In this case, noise is not a problem as it's a modern cam with great iso capability ;)


Normally if the watch I'm shooting has hacking, I would just pull the crown to stop it and shoot it slightly slanted so the crown poping out doesn't show. I still don't really trust the in-camera noise reduction, as I always think noisy reduction as sharpness reduction. Old man thinking I know. Lol.



Oh Ya, if without tripod and I need to shoot with below 1/60 shutter. I would shoot in burst mode to compensate for my shaky hands. Hoping one of the burst shot will be sharp enough.
b3nji23
Re: Photography
test test :geek: